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NOTICE:  We will be out of town from 10/14-21 to participate in the Texas Gourd Society Gourd Festival. 

If you're in the neighborhood please stop by and say hello!

We will be shipping orders while we are out of town but will not have all of our wood supply with us. 

If we do not have something you order we will ship the entire order when we return. 

Sorry for any inconvenience!

 

WOODBURNING FROM A - Z    l    BURNING MATERIALS & SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

WORK IN PROGRESS    l    BURNING GOURDS    l    PYROGRAPHY SUPPLIES & TOOLS

SOLID POINT WOODBURNING TIPS   l   RAZERTIP PENS   l   COLWOOD PENS  

   USING PHOTOGRAPHS AS PATTERNS   l   USING COLOR IN WOODBURNINGS   l   GOURD PAINTING & DECORATING

 

BURNING MATERIALS & SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

 

What can you woodburn?

Woodburning Pyrography is done on a variety of surfaces in addition to wood, but the material you choose is very important.  Some surfaces can be toxic when burned and can cause serious harm.  One of the best woods to burn is basswood.  It is soft and has very little grain.  Italian poplar is another nice wood and wonderful for framing your work when it’s complete.  Birch plywood is also another good wood, but it is more difficult due to its having a coarse grain and occasional flaws to deal with.  But when burning on plywood caution must be taken.  There are many other woods that are good, but be sure that you determine which ones are safe and which are not. 

Burning on some woods can be potentially dangerous to your health....maybe not today, it might take years for you or those around you to develop serious health problems as a result of working on dangerous materials.

When burning on wood, I primarily use lighter woods such as basswood, maple, birch and Italian poplar because I like the wonderful contrast between the light wood and the burned design.  Some people use darker woods, but to me the burning seems to fade into the wood with darker or stained woods.  Again, this is personal preference and it does not mean that my way is the only or best way.

Safe woods to burn

Basswood is one of the most popular woods used by woodburners.  It is a great choice for woodburning because it's easy to burn, has very little grain and it burns beautifully.  You get such a rich, crisp contrast between the wood and the deep color of the burning.  It is available in all shapes and sizes.  The slabs and rounds with bark around the edges are great for "western" themes, wildlife and rustic designs. 

Italian poplar plywood is also very light in color and has very even, smooth grain.  It's easy to woodburn on and like the basswood creates a pleasing light background against the deep rich color of the burning.  It creates a nicely finished piece that is suitable for framing.  Be cautious when burning on plywood not to burn deep into the glue which can cause health problems.

Birch plywood is another wood that is commonly used for woodburning but it has an uneven grain and is harder to burn on than the Italian poplar or basswood.  It is more challenging to use because of the grain and since it is a darker wood there is not as much contrast. Burning on birch will require a higher temp on the burner than burning on italian poplar and basswood.  Be cautious when burning on plywood not to burn deep into the glue which can cause health problems.

Maple is bit darker and a hard wood but it produces wonderful results when burning.  Burning on maple will also require a higher temp on the woodburner. 

Other woods that are safe include tupelo and holly.  There are probably many others but these are woods that are generally safe to work with.

A note of precaution when burning on plywood....do not burn deep into the glue layer as it can be toxic.  If you are new burner and unsure of your ability to control the burner start out on a piece of basswood until you gain some control. 

Everything you wanted to know about American Basswood

American Basswood is found throughout central US and East to Main.  The largest concentrations grow in the Lake states.  Northern (northern Minnesota, northern Wisconsin and upper Michigan) basswood grows slower and provides a finer-textured wood that is sought after for carving and burning. 

The best quality basswood for carving and burning is harvested during the dormant season (November through March in the lake states).  During this period the sap is not flowing and wood that is harvested during this time will be very light colored, fine grained and bark that does not readily fall off.  Summer cut basswood often produces a pale yellow color in the lumber.  Sugar in the basswood logs reacts with heat and in most cases causes the wood to turn pale yellow if not sawn within two weeks of being harvested. 

Most of the craft quality wood is the wood that is spring or summer cut.  If you compare a piece of winter cut wood versus spring or summer cut the difference is very noticeable.  A good example of summer cut basswood is the planks and rounds found in most craft stores sold under the name of Walnut Hollow.  The wood is darker and yellow versus the winter cut wood which is almost white or cream color. 

Another difference you will find when you buy better quality winter cut basswood is that it is cut thicker than the craft quality and there will be far less (if any) flaws and black marks through out the wood. 

More about basswood boards and rounds with bark on the edges

Woodburners and relief carvers often like using bark boards with bark on the edges or rounds with the bark all around.  In order for the bark to adhere to these products, the logs MUST be harvested and sawn during the dormant season.  Sawing them during the spring and summer when the sap is moving up and down the tree will cause the bark to slip, resulting in the bark falling off. 

The ovals and rounds must be dried slowly, preferably in a cool area, to prevent cracking or splitting.  They also must be spaced appropriately where air can move around them to prevent staining. 

So for woodburning getting winter cut is much preferred over summer cut basswood.  You will end up getting much clearer wood and it won't cost much more for a better quality wood. 

Wood Toxicity

This is a subject that I could devote an entire book to, but will just cover nominally here and give you some resources to do more research.

The main hazard to be wary of is the extremely fine wood dust when sanding the wood or in some cases the pitch/sap or resin that emits harmful fumes when burning.  Some research indicates that long-term exposure to the dust and fumes from these woods can cause asthma or increase the risk of more serious illnesses, such as nasal cancer.  Molds can also trigger allergic reactions, and you should take extra precautions when using spalted materials.

Some woods that are listed as toxic, such as ash, beech, birch and spalted maple are due to fungal contamination rather than the wood chemistry itself.  Woods such as cedar or pine contain resins  or oils that emit toxic odors when burned and may cause serious respiratory problems when inhaled.  If you must use some of these woods, be sure to take precautions, such as wearing a good dust mask and/or gloves when sanding to prevent a rash between your fingers. 

NOTICE:  Several years ago I received a call from a customer in Nebraska.  He asked me about good woods to burn on and he told me he bought a large quantity of cedar to burn on.  I warned him of the risks and I offered some suggestions on precautions he could take and he agreed to try my suggestions.  The following week he called back and told me that  he had followed my instructions completely and vented the fumes out a window but he told me that the fumes still lingered.  The following weekend his young son came to visit and the boy had difficulty breathing within minutes of entering his apartment.  He was very upset, not to mention sick about the impact on his son and agreed that it just wasn't worth the risk.

Remember, that the effects of burning on some of these materials doesn't just affect you so please be safe!

For addition information on wood toxicity, please do some research on your own.  There are lots of resources on the subject. The chart listed below has been passed around through the woodcarving community for many years and can also provide some valuable information.  Some woods that were not on this original list but that have been known to cause problems, especially to woodburners have been added. 

 

The following chart appeared in American Woodturner Magazine, June 1990, it was reprinted from Art Hazards News Vol. 13 No.5, 
compiled by Robert Woodcock, RN, BSN, CEN.  I have added a several wood's to this list and will continue to do so as we learn about 
other woods that may pose health risks. 
 
Disclaimer
The information contained in this chart is furnished free of charge and is based on public domain information that is believed 
to be reliable.  Nedra Denison and Sawdust Connection makes no warranty as to the completeness or accuracy thereof.  
The information is to be used at an individual's own risk. 
 

Wood

Reaction

Site

Potency

Source

Incidence

Bald Cypress

sensitizer

respiratory

+

dust

Rare

Balsam Fir

sensitizer

eyes, skin

+

leaves, bark

Common

Beech

sensitizer, nasopharyngeal cancer

eyes, skin, respiratory

++

leaves, bark, dust

Common
Birch

sensitizer

respiratory

++

wood, dust

Common
Black Locust

irritant, nausea

eyes, skin

+++

leaves, bark

Common
Blackwood

sensitizer

eyes, skin

++

wood, dust

Common
Boxwood

sensitizer

eyes, skin

++

wood, dust

Common
Camphor (laurel)

sensitizer

respiratory +++ resin Common
Cashew

sensitizer

eyes, skin

+

wood, dust

Rare
Cedar, west red

irritant,

sensitizer

skin, respiratory +++ dust, leaves, bark, resin Common
Cocobolo

irritant,

sensitizer

eyes, skin, respiratory

+++

wood, dust

Common
Dahoma

irritant

eyes, skin

++

wood, dust Common
Ebony

irritant,

sensitizer

eyes, skin

++

wood, dust Common
Elm

irritant

eyes, skin

+

dust

Rare
Goncalo Alves

sensitizer

eyes, skin

++

wood, dust Rare
Greenheart

sensitizer

eyes, skin

+++

wood, dust Common
Hemlock

nasopharyngeal cancer

respiratory

?

dust

Uncommon
Iroko

irritant,

sensitizer, pneumonitis

eyes, skin, respiratory

+++

wood, dust Common
Mahogany

sensitizer

skin, respiratory

+

dist

Uncommon
Mansonia

Irritant, sensitizer, nausea

eyes, skin

+++

+

wood, dust

Common
Maple (Spalted)

sensitizer, pneumonitis

respiratory

+++

dust

Common
Mimosa

nausea

gastrointestinal

?

leaves, bark

Uncommon
Myrtle

sensitizer

respiratory

++

leaves, bark, dust

Common
Oak

sensitizer

nasopharyngeal cancer

eyes, skin

++

?

leaves, bark, dust

Rare

Obeche

irritant,

sensitizer

eyes, skin, respiratory

+++

wood, dust

Common
Oleander

direct toxin

cardiac

++++

dust, leaves, bark, wood

Common
Olivewood

irritant,

sensitizer

eyes, skin, respiratory

+++

wood, dust Common
Opepe

sensitizer

respiratory

+

dust

Rare
Padauk

sensitizer

eyes, skin, respiratory

+

wood, dust Rare
Pau Ferro

sensitizer

eyes, skin

+

wood, dust Rare
Peroba Rosa

Irritant, nausea

respiratory

++

wood, dust Uncommon
Pine sensitizer, pneumonitis, nasopharyngeal cancer, asthma respiratory, eyes ++ sap/pitch Common
Purpleheart

nausea

 

++

wood, dust Common
Quebracho

irritant,

nasopharyngeal cancer, nausea

respiratory

++

?

leaves, bark, dust

Common

Redwood

sensitizer, pneumonitis, nasopharyngeal cancer

eyes, skin, respiratory

++

?

dust

Rare

Rosewoods

irritant,

sensitizer

eyes, skin, respiratory

++++

wood, dust Uncommon
Satinwood

irritant

eyes, skin, respiratory

+++

wood, dust Common

Sassafras

sensitizer, direct toxin, nausea, nasopharyngeal cancer

respiratory

+

+

?

dust, leaves, bark, wood

Rare

Sequoia

irritant

respiratory

+

dust

Rare
Snakewood

irritant

respiratory

++

wood, dust Rare
Spruce

sensitizer

respiratory

+

wood, dust Rare
Walnut, Black

sensitizer

eyes, skin

++

wood, dust Common
Wenge

sensitizer

eyes, skin, respiratory

+

wood, dust Common
Willow

sensitizer, nausea

respiratory

+

dust, leaves, bark, wood

Uncommon

Western Red Cedar

sensitizer

respiratory

+++

dust, leaves, bark

Common
Teak

sensitizer, pneumonitis

eyes, skin, respiratory

++

dust

Common
Yew

irritant, direct toxin,  nasopharyngeal cancer, nausea

eyes, skin

++

++++

wood, dust Common
Zebrawood

sensitizer

eyes, skin

++

wood, dust Rare

 

References:

1. Woods Toxic to Man, author unknown

2. "Toxic Woods". ,Woods, B., Calnan, C.D., Br. Journal of Dermatology, 1976

3. ILO Encyclopedia of Occupational Health and Safety, 1983

4. AMA Handbook of Poisonous and Injurious Plants, Lame, K., McAnn, M., AMA, 1985

5. Poisondex, Micromedix Inc., 1990

Useful resources regarding wood toxicity

some of this information might be repetitive but I think the more informed you are, the safer you will be when you begin burning.  The first link was written by a pulmonary doctor.  I think this is one of the most valuable links here.

http://www.riparia.org/toxic_woods.htm

http://www.woodturner.org/resources/toxicity.cfm

http://www.thewoodbox.com/data/wood/toxicityinfo.htm

http://www.awwg.org/awg_woodtoxicity.htm

http://www.womeninwoodworking.com/startingarchive/startingpoints8.cfm

 

Some materials that are not safe to burn

DO NOT burn on pressure-treated wood. It is treated with chemicals that, although safely bound in the wood fibers for construction purposes, are inherently dangerous to woodworkers and woodburners.

DO NOT burn on spalted or medium density fiber board (MDF) are unsafe to burn.  They are loaded with chemicals and formaldehyde that are unsafe and should not be used for pyrography. 

DO NOT burn on any type of plastic, acrylic, Plexiglass, Lucite, etc.  They are also chemicals that will emit fumes that can cause serious harm. If you must do this, please do it outdoors!  I don't care what they call it, it's plastic, it's chemicals and it's TOXIC!!!!  This includes acrylic mirrors and press and seal wrap which many people are using transfer patterns and then burn right through it. 

DO NOT burn on any type of treated wood:  stained, painted, sealed with a finish.  If you  must use this type of wood be sure that you have thoroughly sanded it to remove all traces and are burning on BARE wood.

I have spoken with manufacturers of plastics and acrylics and they stress the fact that plastic is composed of chemical and is toxic when burned.  So I urge people to find safer methods of transferring patterns and safer things to burn.  Plastic in any form was not invented for people to burn so please be safe!

Other materials that are fun and safe to burn

Burning on many plywood, such as birch and Italian poplar are safe but precautions must be taken to avoid burning through the wood into the glue layer which can be toxic and the fumes can be harmful.

Gourds are nice to work on, but a nominal challenge, because of the curvature and slick surface.  You can sometimes find gourds that are craft-ready, so you don’t have as much preparation to do.  Burning on gourds does require a hotter temperature than burning on wood and you will need to ensure that you keep your tip clean at all times because you will accumulate more carbon and material from the gourd than from wood. Also keep in mind that burning or carving gourds can also cause respiratory problems so use a mask when working with gourds and work in a well-ventilated area.   The biggest problem comes when you cut them open and carve or sand inside or burn deep past the "skin".  Be careful to wear an appropriate mask when working with gourds and do it away outside the house.

Leather is another nice material, but you must ensure that you are only using leather that is oil/vegetable-tanned.  You can usually find this at Tandy Leather and many other suppliers.  Chrome or metal tanned leather can produce dangerous fumes.  Burning on leather requires  a slightly cooler pen than burning on wood but, and again you must ensure that you keep your tip clean.  Please check out the tutorial "Woodburning from A-Z" for more information on leather burning.

Tagua nuts, also known as “nature’s ivory”,  are fun and interesting to use.  Burning on these little nuts requires very fine-tipped pens, which are available from Razertip and some other companies.

Canvas is my new best friend.  It's fun to burn but please make sure the canvas is untreated.  Also use a lower temperature and be sure to put it on top of a solid surface and iron the canvas before you start burning. 

You can burn on any surface that is created from natural fibers such as paper, velum, bamboo, canvas, cloth...as long as they are not treated with anything. 

Other important safety precautions

The burning tips on the pens are hot and care should be taken when using them to avoid injury!

Always turn off your burner when you stop burning.  NEVER walk away from your burner when it is turned on.  That’s an accident waiting to happen.

Do not leave children unsupervised near the pyrography tools. 

To avoid accidents (and yes, they do happen!) keep your work area clean
Be sure you work in a well ventilated room.

You can use an inexpensive computer fan to move the smoke away from your project without interfering with the temperature of the burning pen. 

If unsure about the safety of burning on any particular material, please check the MSDS sheets before burning.

I learned the hard way about the safety of burning on synthetic materials, so my final word here is to use extreme caution and do not burn on synthetic materials such as acrylic, which contain chemicals that are toxic when burned and can cause serious harm.  If you are unsure of the safety, do  your own research before burning anything you are unsure of. 

Do not rely on information from other people without verifying the safety factors yourself from an expert in the field. Just because someone else has done it, doesn’t make it safe.  While it may be fun working on some materials, many are not safe when subjected to the intense heat of a burner.  It may seem safe, but it also sometimes takes years for symptoms to show up and then it's too late. An example is people who have been exposed to asbestos...it took years before they developed serious complications and by then it was too late to reverse the damage that had been done.  So, please be safe!

Bottom line is...do not burn on any man-made compounds....plastics, composite boards, glues, acrylics, anything of unknown origin, etc.  If you are unsure if it has already been treated or a finish has already been applied DON'T BURN IT!

Pyrography is fun, as long as you take proper precautions.  Be Safe!

If you are aware of any other materials or woods that should be added to this list please let me know

Happy Burning©!

Nedra

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Updated 7/5/08

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